Travel through Rwanda

Meeting the Army !

Travel through Rwanda at the end of the wet season was a slow and at times frustratingly slow process.We had all become pretty good at collecting branches and whatever was suitable to lay under the wheels.................anything to help give some grip.

The Main Road through Rwanda

But it required skill and the right know how to drive the vehicles out of the bog. Usually the African drivers were reluctant to hand over the keys and let our drivers do the deed.

Several times we groaned, watching in frustration, as they revved their engine, driving their wheels deeper and deeper into the gluggy red mud.Usually much time would have been wasted, until they reluctantly gave in and allowed our drivers to get their vehicles back on the road..........did I say road? Well, yes, that is what they purported to be. Look at the picture and you decide!

The Army Arrives

Having been detained at the Tanzanian border for several hours we were much later than planned, crossing into Rwanda. We arrived in King Edward National Game Park, and it is against the law to camp in these game parks. But arriving at twilight, we had little choice. Darkness was upon us, and we could go no further. The drivers knew we needed to be very careful. The army that ruled Rwanda made for some tense situations.Travel in Rwanda, even then was something you did with care. We set up camp by a river, leaving a reasonable space between the tents, in case hippos decided to lumber through.Somewhat bemused, we helped the drivers take the wheels off the trucks so they could feign punctures, as an alibi for camping in the park.

Bush telegraph can travel through Rwanda much more quickly than vehicles, we found! Within an hour of arriving, a truck full of Rwandan army officers, appeared out of the bush. They demanded women, whisky and passports, in that order. While we all waited nervously in the background, the drivers talked.

A Sense of Freedom

The next morning we pulled up to their camp. While the drivers went to retrieve our passports, we talked to some of the army.I talked to one officer who demanded to know why our government had sent us. What was I looking for? I explained we were here because they had amazing, and very special nature and animals, and we wanted to travel through Rwanda and experience their wonderful country. I assured him my government did not have any reason to send me, and I was free to travel the world, without my government’s permission.

He kept insisting that my government must have sent me. Why? It became apparent he could not believe that anyone had the freedom to come and go from their country and tour around as they wished. I realized no amount of talking would convince him I had a freedom he probably never dreamed of............ it was out of his realm of thinking.

After each person fronting for a photo check before being handed their passport, we were free to travel through Rwanda unimpeded.....or so we thought!

It had been an interesting insight into a country that has had terrible actions in recent times. Looking back.............the signs were there.

The Chimpanzee Sanctuary

Further into what was then a very lovely country with tiered gardens clinging to the hillsides, and stands of tall gum trees, we stopped at a sanctuary for chimpanzees.

A keeper explained that we could not have a look right away. We could hear the drums beating, as the local people gathered by the flagpole. He explained everyone, including tourists like us, must stop still at 10 a.m every morning, to honour the president with their National song. Not to do so was an offence punishable by going to jail!

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