Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.......We Achieved Our Dream !Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro is the dream of many. On an African Overland Safari.......fifteen of us had decided a Kilimanjaro climb was something we really wanted to do. The others on our Overland trip would drive to Mombasa, and relax on the beach for a few days. Ray, our experienced driver/leader, assured us that the good strong boots we had all equipped ourselves with as every day footwear for the trip, would be just fine for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. For our other clothing, it was just what we had. Jeans, T shirts, a thin parka, and warm jumper. We had no special equipment for our Mount Kilimanjaro ascent! No walking sticks, thermal clothing or other special equipment I have read about in articles written by present day Kili climbers. This was September 1973. We set up camp at Moshi. There were few companies taking groups up Mount Kilimanjaro .......this inspiring moutain, and we couldn't afford to go with an organized tour anyway.Ray organized the porters privately. They were all locals from the villages, who would carry our sleeping gear, and food, soup, rice and bread. We were on rations as there was limited food from our supplies we could take,that was suitable.
Let the Climb Begin!We awoke to rain. Following Granny our old converted army truck that was home up the hill...... we short cut through Fredirick's garden, and arrived at the gates to the park at the start of the Mount Kilimanjaro climb, where we paid our fees.Let the journey begin!We walked on up the road past houses with neat gardens, coffee under planting the lush banana palms, and a range of vegetables. Eventually we left the houses behind, and the rain set in, as we trudged through thick green growth. Arriving at Madara Hut by 1.00 pm we had found the first section relatively easy. Although we were glad of the coke and beer awaiting us. Huddled inside to keep warm, we were all pleased to see the porters arrive.The hunger pangs were setting in. However,we did not get our first soup and bread meal until 5.30pm. It seems lunch was not on the menu today. We were all in our sleeping bags by 7.00pm. The warmest place to be. I guess you have to expect a mountain as high as Mount Kilimanjaro will be cold!At 19,341 feet, or 5,895 metres high, it is the highest mountain in Africa, and the only one to have permanent snow. The Second Leg - Madara to Horambo HutAfter a breakfast of muesli and porridge washed down with tea, we were on our way by 8.00am. We passed through rather slippery rainforest, until it opened up to grassland. It was very pretty with beautiful flowers, and a clear view of Mount Kilimanjaro in all her glory, just tipped in snow. Passing clumps of trees reminiscent of New Zealand cabbage trees, the walking was still relatively easy,on undulating terrain.
Peder – a Swiss guy on our truck, and I were the first to arrive at Horombo the second hut, by 11.00 am.Only three hours today. We were very glad lunch was on the menu....... more soup, just for some variety. We spent the afternoon talking, singing and lying in the sun when it chose to come out, although it was rather cold. It was another early night as we turned in, finding our space on the three tiered board bunks.I have read these huts are now upgraded and they sound positively luxurious! Kibo - That Elusive HutThe third day was to be a bit longer than the previous two, which had both covered 10 miles. Today we had a 12 mile walk. My leg was giving me trouble, but I pushed on. After the bushy scrub, we passed up over a saddle and on to the plain, reminding me of the scenery from 2001 Space Odyssey. Climbing gradually, it went on..... and on....... and.....on!I could see Kibo Hut in the distance, but somehow it never seemed to get any closer. I had been warned about this stretch of this Mount Kilimanjaro trek. So it was with relief I finally arrived, having battled against the hail for the last couple of hours. The hut was set against the base of the scree which rose sharply to the peak. It was now really cold, and in hindsight, our clothing was probably less than adequate for such a trip. We huddled two to a board bed, from 2.30 in the afternoon.The inevitable soup, was ready by 4.00. and knowing we would be leaving for the final leg just after midnight, we tried to sleep....... while outside it snowed. Have YOU ever climbed Mount Kilimanjaro? We would love to read about it! CLICK HERE to tell us your story or write a review.You can upload photos too. You will be able to send your friends to your own web page! On Top of Mount Kilimanjaro !Wearing every available scrap of clothing we possessed, we set off in the moonlight in single file, up the scree.This would be our most difficult section of Mount Kilimanjaro, both in the terrain and the altitude. Following the guide, at a slow but steady pace, we had regular stops.The air was thinner and breathing more difficult. Slowly going up, it got steeper and steeper. A few, affected by the altitude and feeling tired or unwell, turned back. The only way to combat the effects, being to go to a lower level.The view was stunning, with the moon shining on the snow. As we neared the top, Mount Kilimanjaro presented us with her special gift. The rising sun came into view, a glowing orangy red line on the horizon. After a short steep stretch, I pulled myself up onto Gellman’s Point.Success! I had reached the top of the mighty Mount Kilimanjaro. Huddled together,we signed the book with numb fingers, took photos to record the moment, and sucked on a sweet to celebrate. Eleven of the fifteen starters had made it. Having soaked in the view, and bathed in the satisfaction of our achievement, we were ready to attack the scree slope on the downward leg.
The Long Haul Home!Getting down the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro was an exercise in frustration! It was slow going. More difficult than I had expected, I alternately slid on my heels, or sat on my haunches as though on a sled. The buzz of having made it helped keep the mind positive, but it was hard on the legs. Oh to be a skier! The Swiss all foot skied to the bottom and were on their way down, long before the rest of us.Arriving back atKibo by 8.30am we packed our gear for the porters. Terry, Jay and I were aiming to do the whole 40 miles back to camp in one go. Hungry.......... visions of fresh tomatoes floated before my eyes, to keep me going. 11.30am and we were again at Horambo Hut where we had a welcome break. We sat and chatted with a Danish and Swedish couple sitting outside. They produced tomatoes, hard boiled eggs and a sandwich each. Mmmmmmmm........they had never tasted so good! Altitude Sickness AdviceThe Swedish lady was a nurse in the hospital at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro , and she was rather concerned we intended to go the whole way, without staying over night. She told us about some of the people they had treated at the hospital, who had suffered badly from altitude sickness. She explained the necessity to take it slowly as we went down,to let the body acclimatize.She really tried to convince us we should overnight at the next hut.But the die had been cast when we gave the porters all our gear. We had to continue with the plan! CLICK THIS LINK for excellent information about altitude sickness. Rested and fed, we carried on at a slower pace to the first hut. The grass, then rainforest seemed endless, as we plodded on. Going down was more difficult than going up. It was very hard on the feet as my toes were constantly thrust against the tip of my boots. We arrived at Madara Hut for the second time in three days, mid afternoon.Our feet were blistered and our legs stiff.Lady Mount Kilimanjaro wasn't going to let us have it too easy! I like to keep going once I am in the rhythm of things. The thought of having to get up and put on our boots next day was too much, even if we had our sleeping bags and could overnight here. Lost in the DarkWe took a brief rest and continued on. Despite our delicious lunch courtesy of the Swedish lady, the vision of a good meal and comfortable bed, was all it took to keep us going. By the time we reached the gates it was dark. Stumbling on, sore and weary, we asked any villagers we met how far to the camp. The reply was always the same. 2 to 3 miles to the waterfall. We didn’t seem to be getting anywhere!It was a huge relief when one of the porters came across us on his way home, having delivered our gear. He turned around and showed us the way. Within minutes a row of torch lights were coming toward us, and my name was being called. "Gail, Gail" ………Utter relief, washed over us. The porters had arrived back with all our gear. Recognizing my sleeping bag, they realized we obviously planned on returning that day. When we didn’t arrive by nightfall, they decided they had better come and look for us. Food.aaaaahhhhhh!Helping us back to camp...... we were by now hobbling badly, we were given VIP treatment. Sitting down to a delicious meal, and my dreamed about fresh tomatoes, it was an amazing sensation of achievement mixed in with the pain of blistered feet, blackened toenails and stiff joints.Tents and beds were set up for us and we were thoroughly spoilt. After dinner, Ray, Kiwi and Clive arrived with the news the Arab-Israeli War was deteriorating, so we would have to detour from our planned route. It looked like more adventures were in store. Crowning Glory
Next day when the rest of the group arrived back, we were presented with a coronet of flowers for those who had made it to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, and took photos to prove to one and all, we had indeed reached the top. I have done many other interesting, challenging activities over the years, but this trek will always be special. Note:Over the next few days my toenails fell off one by one. One big toe nail eventually joined the rest, but the other stubbornly refused to let go. Detlef, the German doctor traveling with us, was to remove it surgically, as he was worried it could become infected. With only local anesthetic, they decided I should also down a full glass of neat gin to be sure I felt no pain. I didn’t........ and the nail was duly removed. While I was limited for a few days, unable to get out and push when we were stuck in the mud, all my nails healed and slowly grew back to normality.
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