Christmas in the Sahara
an experience of a Lifetime!

My Christmas in the Sahara has to be the most memorable of my many international Christmases. We had left Johannesburg in September, on an overland trip through Africa.
Having had numerous delays by the time we reached Nairobi, our driver realized we were likely to still be on the road and could have Christmas in the Sahara. With this foresight, he bought( and hid away), several canned Christmas puddings. We traveled in two converted army trucks. While we traveled in tandem, one or other of the trucks was your home for meals, camping equipment and travel. Our visas had been acquired in Nairobi. Algeria was the only country where visas started using up their valid time from the date you got them, rather than when you crossed their border. The border patrol was actually 300 kilometers inside the border.
So we arrived in Tamanrasset with expired visas! The up shot was...... the New Zealanders and Austrians needed visas to stay in Algeria. Our ever resourceful drivers managed to negotiate a deal.They were given permission for us to camp on the outskirts of the town, while one of them flew to London, and renewed the visas. This was a great solution, as they were also able to bring back a new gearbox to replace one that was giving trouble. Unfortunately, Algeria was not feeling very friendly toward the Dutch at the time.So our Dutch companion had to forego her Christmas in the Sahara, and leave............ immediately........... and via the route she had entered! The only way we could achieve this, was to cadge a ride for her, with some people driving south.So we sadly waved good bye.
Christmas Eve in the Hoggar Mountains
On Christmas Eve, Ray, our leader, suggested anyone who wanted, could go with him up to Assakrem in the Hoggar mountains, to a monastery run by the Little Brothers of Jesus. We were warned the road was steep, rocky and scary............ but few of us were put off.Having traveled so far, we were quite comfortable with entrusting our lives to Ray.
We drove up through the desert, and then through the rocky terrain. It was everything he warned us of, but an amazing experience.Huge rocks towering skyward, with a groin running top to bottom. We finally arrived four hours later.It was bitterly cold, the wind whistling around the truck, and we huddled inside....happy to eat lunch in it's warmth. Three of us climbed up to the Hermitage.....fascinating...... with books of Charles Foulcard the original monk. There were pictures and writing telling the story of the monastery. The church ran the full length of the red-gold mud building.Inside it had a small alter and mats on the floor...........rather lovely in it's simplicity. We all went up to a small room and wrapped in rugs with candles flickering......sang carols and learned a French carol a Belgian couple introduced us to.
Having offered our gift of French bread to the monks, over thirty of us piled into the church for Christmas Mass. Being in French it was a little difficult for me to understand........but the international communal spirit created a wonderfully festive atmosphere. I have vivid and moving memories of singing Silent Night. Everyone sang in their own language...................... at least eight different languages all blending in to that one beautiful melody. After the service, we were invited down to the monastery to sip hot chocolate, accompanied by fresh dates and biscuits.We sang more carols.........and talked into the night.
Christmas Dinner Magnifique
Having watched the stunning sunrise,we made our way even more slowly back down the incredibly steep road.The brakes were not as good as they should be.......so it was with some relief we arrived back at camp on Christmas morning. We immediately started the preparations for dinner...our Christmas in the Sahara desert was to be a treat we hadn't had for a while! This was to be a rare shared meal,so the two trucks were backed together making a warm and cosy room. By now it was quite cold..........yes......the middle of the Sahara desert can get veeerrrry cold, especially at night when it was pretty chilly! A FEAST for CHRISTMAS in the SAHARA DESERT........MAGICAL! Oh.......what a feast we managed to prepare. Turkey Soup and croutons, an assortment of salads with cans we had saved and vegetables from the local market, ham, mussels, gherkins, cheese and biscuits, peanuts and sultanas. The tinned Christmas pudding was served with custard, jelly and whip! Funnily......... the Europeans on our trip did not like our Christmas pudding! What! We..... of English extraction, found this very strange. We were only too happy to eat their share as well. It was a treat indeed.
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Now for some Entertainment
Our Christmas in the Sahara would not be complete without some entertainment.The performances had been well prepared over the days we had to fill, waiting for our driver to return. Each truck put on a pantomime for the other. Clockwork Orange did a fashion show........interesting what a pair of balloons can do for a guy! There were many laughs and squeals of recognition at the portrayal of others in the group. Another did his beep act with saucepan lids strapped to his knees. Ingenuity for props and scripts made for some amazingly talented, and highly amusing theatre!
Giving of Gifts
We finished with the presents given out by our very own Santa! Having each drawn a name out of a hat, we were to find something locally, for a modest price. Looking back I feel rather mean. I drew the name of one of my cooking companions. I was the only female to have two guys to cook with. While one was a great cook the other had not been well trained in the kitchen. I found it easiest to give him the potatoes to peel, as he struggled with other cooking tasks. I had been told he muttered and complained in German about peeling the mountains of potatoes. When I found a potato peeler in a local shop...... it seemed the perfect gift in memory of his cooking days. Looking back, it is understandable his humour was lacking when he opened it. Oh dear! But the presents were supposed to be funny............... and everyone else had a great old laugh! With several wonderful guitarists on board we rounded off our Christmas Day with more carol singing as we sipped our hot chocolates. I will always treasure the memories of that unique Christmas in the Sahara desert.

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